When it’s chilly outside, there’s nothing better than being wrapped up in a thick blanket that has some weight to it so you can really feel the warmth. I am the type of person that is surrounded by at least one (but probably two) blankets at any time while in the cooler seasons. I searched high and low for the perfect throw blanket but none of them had the weight I wanted so I made my own! I knew I wanted a bulky crochet blanket and I wanted the coziest yarn I could find. So I grabbed some Red Heart Hygge, my crochet hook and got to work on this easy half double crochet blanket pattern.
Easy Half Double Crochet Blanket
Spoiler alert: I LOVE this bulky crochet blanket.
I was a bit nervous to use the Red Heart Hygge yarn since it has the fluffy texture to it. I typically will stay away from yarn like this because I find it catches and splits or in general is a real pain to work with. I decided on this specific yarn anyway because I specifically wanted the fluff and I have to say, it was so smooth and easy to work with – I had no issues at all! I do highly recommend it for this easy half double crochet blanket but, if you aren’t interested, any bulky weight yarn you prefer will do.
The best part about this bulky crochet blanket is… that it’s bulky! It works up quickly, has a gorgeous diagonal ribbing and is nice and heavy. So if you’re looking for a cozy diagonal crochet blanket, you’ve found the perfect one.
The PDF version of this pattern includes the full written pattern, so you can cross off rows as you work!
If you’d like a copy of the PDF, you can grab one on either my Ravelry or my Etsy shop by clicking the buttons below.
Easy (Beginner’s should know how to half double crochet – You will also need to know how to decrease, but this will be explained in the abbreviations).
MATERIALS & TOOLS
This pattern is written to a bulky (5) weight yarn.
I used: Red Heart Hygge in Pearl – Approx 52 oz or 1,380 yards (6 and ½ skeins) including fringe.
Any bulky (5) weight yarn you prefer would do well with this blanket.
Fringe: The fringe on the blanket used approximately 2 oz of yarn, which I included in the yarn usage above.
You will also need:
6 mm hook, scissors, tapestry needle and stitch markers, if you prefer them.
12 hdc stitches in back loop only x 9 rows = Approximately 4 inches x 4 inches
Approximately 50 inches long x 42 inches wide (without fringe)
In US terms;
- ch – chain
- hdc – half double crochet
- hdcblo – half double crochet in back loop only
- blo – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(s)
- hdc2tog – half double crochet two together (decrease)
- hdc3tog – half double crochet three together (decrease)
To hdc2tog, you will: yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over again, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
To hdc3tog, you will: yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over again, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over again, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
- Chain 2 at the beginning of the row never counts as a stitch. Always start your row in the first stitch.
- Every row except the first row is worked entirely in the back loop only. With half double crochet, this can get confusing if you’re new to it because half double crochet have 3 loops. The back loop is always the furthest loop from you.
- This blanket is worked “corner to corner”, which helps to create the diagonal ribbing.
- Because this pattern is mostly a simple two row repeat, this pattern will be explained for the first few rows and then explain an “A” and “B” row that you will repeat in sequence to refer to. It will move on to a “C” and a “D” row to repeat and then an “E” and an “F” row to repeat.
- If you prefer a square blanket and not a rectangle, you can skip the middle section (there will be reference to this in the pattern).
- When increasing and decreasing, we will alternate how many stitches we are increasing (or decreasing) to ensure the blanket stays square and doesn’t become a triangle. So, some rows will increase (or decrease) by 2 and some rows will increase (or decrease) by 3.
- All of this is explained within the pattern.
How to Make This Crochet Throw Blanket
Free Crochet Pattern
R1 – In a magic circle, place 3 hdc. (Alternatively, you can chain 3 and then place 3 hdc in the first chain made). (3)
R2 – Ch 2, turn. Place 2 hdcblo in 1st stitch, 1 hdcblo in 2nd st, and 2 hdcblo in 3rd st. (5)
R3 – Ch 2, turn. Place 3 hdcblo in 1st stitch, 1 hdcblo in the next 3 st, and 3 hdcblo in 5th st. (9)
Now, we will start our 2 row repeat. Before we get into the additional rows, I will explain Row “A” and Row “B”.
Row A: Ch 2, turn. Place 2 hdcblo in 1st stitch, 1 hdcblo in each st until 1 st remains, and 2 hdcblo in the last st. (Increases by 2 stitches)
Row B: Ch 2, turn. Place 3 hdcblo in 1st stitch, 1 hdcblo in each st until 1 st remains, and 3 hdcblo in the last st. (Increases by 4 stitches)
For Rows 4 through 56, you will crochet rows “A” and “B” in sequence. Row 4 starts with an “A” row. Your 56th row should be an “A” row. At the end of your 56th row, you should have 167 stitches.
*If you prefer a square blanket instead of a rectangle, skip rows 57 through 67.
Now, we will start our 2 row repeat to make this blanket a rectangle. Before we get into the additional rows, I will explain Row “C”and Row “D”.
Row C: Ch 2, turn. In blo, hdc3tog, 1 hdcblo in each st until 1 st remains, and 3 hdcblo in the last st. (Stitch count remains the same – 167)
Row D: Ch 2, turn. 2 hdcblo in 1st stitch, 1 hdcblo in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog in blo. (Stitch count remains the same – 167)
R57 “C” Row – Ch 2, turn. In blo, hdc3tog, 1 hdcblo in each st until 1 st remains, 3 hdcblo in last st. (167)
R58 “D” Row – Ch 2, turn. 2 hdcblo in 1st stitch, 1 hdcblo in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog in blo. (167)
For Rows 59 through 67, you will crochet rows “C” and “D” in sequence. Row 59 starts with a “C” row. Your 67th row should be a “C” row. At the end of row 67, you should have 167 stitches.
*If you are creating a square blanket, start following the pattern again here.
Now, we will start our 2 row repeat to decrease the blanket and finish off. Before we get into the additional rows, I will explain Row “E”and Row “F”.
Row E: Ch 2, turn. In blo, hdc2tog, 1 hdcblo in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog. (Decreases by 2 stitches)
Row F: Ch 2, turn. In blo, hdc3tog, 1 hdcblo in each st until 3 sts remain, hdc3tog. (Decreases by 4 stitches)
R68 “E” Row – Ch 2, turn. In blo, hdc2tog, 1 hdcblo in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog. (165)
R69 “F” Row – Ch 2, turn. In blo, hdc3tog, 1 hdcblo in each st until 3 sts remain, hdc3tog. (161)For Rows 70 through 122, you will crochet rows “E” and “F” in sequence. Row 70 starts with an “E” row. Your 122nd row should be a “E” row. At the end of R122, you should have 3 stitches.
R123 – Ch 2, turn. In blo, hdc3tog the 3 stitches of the row.
Finish off, and weave all ends.
I opted not to put a border on this easy half double crochet blanket because I like the look of the raw edge as it looks more organic and natural. For this reason, I have not written into the pattern how to put a border on. If you prefer to put a border on, do that now.
You can find an excellent tutorial on how to put a border on a crochet blanket on Dream A Little Bigger.
To finish off the bulky crochet blanket, I decided on classic fringe. I love the way the fringe looks and it certainly adds a little bit more fun to the overall finished look.
If you don’t want to add fringe, that is completely up to you! It’s your blanket after all.
If you DO want to add fringe, here is what I did:
First things first, I wanted to make creating the strands of yarn for the fringe as easy as possible so I found a book on my bookshelf that was approximately as wide as I wanted my fringe to be. I wrapped the yarn around the book several times and then cut the yarn along the spine of the book to create the strands. (I did this in batches, I wrapped the yarn around 30 or so times before cutting).
I opted to put fringe in the side of each row on the short sides of the blanket and to put two strands in each row.
I took two strands, folded them in half, used my trusty Furls crochet hook to pull the loop through the side of the stitch on the row, and then pulled the tails through the loop. Pull tight and the first part of your fringe is done!
Continue doing this across the short edges of the blanket. You can choose to do it in every row like I did or skip a few rows, that is up to you.
The more strands you have in each “piece” of fringe in each row will make a fuller fringe.
Once your fringe is complete, you’re all set to huddle under your new bulky crochet blanket, relax and binge watch some Netflix. You deserve it!
I hope you love the Aspen Blanket as much as I do. I love how this easy half double crochet blanket works up and it’s added personality with the diagonal ribbing and fringe. I hope you stay warm and cozy this winter.
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Find More Free Crochet Patterns:
If you’d like smaller projects that have the diagonal ribbing, you should check out my Snowbank Pocket Scarf or Nebula Infinity Scarf.
If you’d like to stay even warmer and cozier this winter, the Arctic Beanie is a great addition to any wardrobe and is great for men and women.