Millie Throw Blanket

Love crochet throw blankets with texture that’s stunning and have beautiful drape to wrap up in? You’ll love the Millie Throw Blanket! This free crochet throw pattern has delightful texture in the form of cluster stitches and special techniques that create a beautiful yet functional and cozy blanket.

Perfect for staying cozy while hanging out on the couch and featuring cluster stitches that provide stunning texture, the Millie free crochet throw pattern is wonderfully warm and visually appealing blanket.

This free crochet throw pattern is an expanded version of my Millie Blanket Strip, which is Part 3 of the Tranquility Blanket CAL which I am co-hosting with my lovely friend Made by Gootie.

I love, love, love the texture of this stitch design and I’ve used it in patterns before. While I originally set out to crochet an entire blanket using just part 3, I soon discovered that I actually preferred a little something extra in a “full size” blanket.

So, this free crochet throw pattern can be considered a sibling to my Part 3, but not a twin.

This crochet blanket pattern has been expanded to have wider areas of solid stitching, breaks with simple rows, takes less yarn than it originally would have and is absolutely gorgeous.

Where to get this Free Crochet Throw Blanket Pattern

The Millie Blanket is a free crochet throw pattern in this blog post. Scroll down to view the free version.

However, if you’d like a more robust pattern with photo tutorials, the steps for the photo tutorial written out in full sentences and a printer friendly version of the PDF, I recommend you purchase the PDF pattern.

With the PDF pattern, you will receive photo tutorials for the special stitches and techniques as well as a detailed photo tutorial for each row which will set you up to work this crochet blanket pattern with confidence. The photos include details with highlights, arrows and dots to help identify all the stitches and their placement.

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Skill Level

Intermediate – Crocheters looking to follow this pattern should know how to:

• Read a crochet pattern – There is NOT a video tutorial for this crochet throw pattern
• Work the basic stitches – Chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet
• Extended Half Double Crochet or be willing to learn
• Extended Half Double Crochet 3 Together or be willing to learn
• Crochet only in the 3rd Loop of a half double crochet or be willing to learn
• Create chain 2 spaces
• Work into chain spaces
• Place multiple stitches into one stitch
• Skip stitches and end repeats on skipped stitches.
• How to place a stitch “in the previous stitch” or be willing to learn.

This free crochet throw pattern is NOT a beginner pattern!

If you are unfamiliar with any of these techniques or aren’t familiar with reading patterns, I highly recommend the PDF as it will walk you through everything step by step.

Materials

Medium (4) Worsted Weight Yarn of your choice in wool, acrylic or a blend of the two fibers. You will need approximately: 47 ounces / 1332 grams / 2,904 yards

Yarn Used: Sirdar Country Classic Worsted in colorway Fern. Yarn is 50% Merino Wool and 50% Acrylic. 3.5 oz / 100 g / 218 yds per skein. I used approximately 13.5 skeins.

Tools & Notions

5 mm (H-8) Hook – Check out my favorite crochet hooks!
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch markers

Gauge

14 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches

Pattern for Gauge: Ch 15

Follow Rows 1 through 9 of pattern instructions. Once complete, check gauge.

The gauge swatch is a great way to practice this pattern/special stitches!

Note: I am a tight crocheter; my tension is usually tighter than others. Learn more about gauge and what this means here.

Size

Approximately 50 inches wide x 60 inches long

If you prefer a different width, use the stitch multiple provided (in pattern notes) to change it. If you prefer a different length, repeat the rows more or less times than instructed. Make sure to end on the same row as the instructions state. You may find my Stitch Multiples and/or Crochet Blanket Sizes articles helpful when doing this.

Abbreviations (US TERMS)

• Ch – Chain
• Sl St – Slip Stitch
• Sc – Single Crochet
• Hdc – Half Double Crochet
• Dc – Double Crochet
• eHdc – Extended Half Double Crochet (see special stitch)
• Ehdc3tog – Extended Half Double Crochet 3 Together (see special stitch)
• 3LO – 3rd Loop Only of Hdc (see special stitch)
• Ch 1 “eye” – Created by chaining 1 after creating Ehdc3tog. (see Special Technique)
• Sk – Skip
• St(s) – Stitch(es)
• Spc – Space
• Starting in Previous Stitch (See Special Technique)
• RS – Right Side
• WS – Wrong Side
• […] – Repeats are listed within brackets.
• (…) – Instructions within parenthesis indicate to work all instructions in the same indicated stitch or space.
• (…) – Stitch counts are listed at the end of the row in parenthesis and bold italics.

Notes

• Chain 1 and chain 2 at the start of rows DO NOT count as stitches. Always place your first stitch of the new row in the very first stitch. 
• The pattern requires a multiple of 4 stitches + 2 stitches (+ 1 turning chain). 
• “2 hdc next st” means to place 2 half double crochet all in the same indicated stitch.
• “1 ehdc each of the next 2 stitches” means to place 1 extended half double crochet into each of the next 2 stitches.
• You’ll likely learn a new stitch or technique with this pattern. Please review the special stitch and technique tutorials.
• The blanket will be approximately 4 inches smaller in width and length before crocheting the border.

Special Stitch – Extended Half Double Crochet (ehdc)

The eHdc (Extended Half Double Crochet) is a slightly taller version of the half double crochet. You can follow my step-by-step photo tutorial for detailed instructions including how and why this stitch works, or use the information below.

To make an eHdc, you will: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. 3 loops on hook (Pic 1, top image). Yarn over, pull through only the first loop on hook (Pic 1, bottom image, white arrow). 3 loops on hook (Pic 2). Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops (Pic 3, white arrow). Ehdc complete (Pic 4)!

Special Stitch – Extended Half Double Crochet 3 Together (ehdc3tog)

The ehdc3tog makes 3 stitches (Pic 1 below) into 1 stitch. In this pattern, this stitch is used as a cluster and, when accompanied by a chain 1 and starting in previous stitch, won’t decrease the stitch count. You can follow my step-by-step photo tutorial for detailed instructions including how and why this stitch works, or use the information below.

To work an ehdc3tog, you will: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through (Pic 2, black arrow). 3 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through the first loop on hook ONLY (Pic 3, white arrow). 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and insert hook into the NEXT stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through (Pic 4, black arrow). 5 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through the first loop on hook ONLY (Pic 5, white arrow). 5 loops on hook. Yarn over and insert hook into the NEXT stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through (Pic 6, black arrow). 7 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through the first loop on hook ONLY (Pic 7, white arrow). 7 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops (Pic 8, white arrow). Ehdc3tog Complete (Pic 9)!

Special Technique – Starting in Previous Stitch

To ensure the stitch count does not decrease, we will start the next Ehdc3tog “in the previous stitch”. What this means is to use the same stitch where your previous stitch ended to begin your next Ehdc3tog.

• In Pic 1, I have 1 completed Ehdc3tog. This stitch started in the “previous stitch” which is the same stitch as the dc was placed in. The 3 “legs” of the stitch are highlighted with an upside down yellow W. A black arrow points to the last stitch we worked into while making the Ehdc3tog. This is the “Previous stitch”. 
• In Pic 2, the Ehdc3tog is not highlighted and the black arrow still points to the “previous stitch”. This is where we insert our hook to begin the next Ehdc3tog.
• Pic 3 shows a yarn over and the hook is positioned to go into the same stitch as the last leg of the previous Ehdc3tog.
• Pic 4 shows the first yarn over, pull through, yarn over pull through 1 loop completed. This image shows it both with and without highlights. In the bottom half, the last leg of the previous Ehdc3tog is highlighted yellow. The first leg of our second Ehdc3tog is highlighted pink. You can see they go into the same stitch.
• Pic 5 shows the second Ehdc3tog completed both with and without highlights. In the bottom half, the first Ehdc3tog is highlighted with a yellow upside down W and the second is highlighted with a pink upside down W. 

Special Technique – Ch 1 “Eye”

After all Ehdc3tog stitches , we chain 1 as instructed. 

This chain 1 secures all of the loops we have gathered to create the stitch so that they aren’t able to slide around. This is referred to as the Ch 1 “Eye” in the pattern. This is important for the pattern. This chain 1 and “starting in the previous stitch” is what keeps our work from decreasing.

In the image to the above, I have created an Ehdc3tog and I have chained 1. An arrow points to the chain 1. This chain 1 has secured all of the 7 loops of the Ehdc3tog.

We will work into these chain 1 spaces (“eye”s) on the next row. When we turn our work, we can see the Ehdc3tog’s leaning toward the right (to the left, if you’re left handed ) almost like little waves.

The image above shows the wrong side facing as if we are going to work the next row (Row 2) and arrows point downward to these Chain 1 “Eye”s. On the right, the chain 1 “eye” is highlighted in yellow and the 7 loops of the Ehdc3tog in white. The top of the Ehdc3tog is highlighted red.

You will work into the yellow highlighted chain 1 when instructed to. This chain 1 should not be difficult to work into.

The Millie Throw Blanket – Free Crochet Throw Pattern

Ch 155.

Row 1 (WS) – Place 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (154)

Row 2 (RS) – Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), turn. Place 1 ehdc in first st and each st across. (154)

Row 3 (WS) – Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), turn. 1 hdc first st. [Sk 1 st, 2 hdc next st]. Repeat inside brackets until 1 st remains. 1 hdc last st. (154)

Row 4 (RS) – Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in first st. [Ehdc3tog starting in previous st, ch 1] . Repeat inside brackets until only 1 st remains. 1 dc last st. (154 sts total – 2 dc, 76 ehdc3tog, 76 ch 1 “eyes”)

Row 5 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc first st, [2 hdc in ch 1 “eye”, sk ehdc3tog]. Repeat inside brackets until 1 st remains. 1 hdc in last st. (154)

Row 6 (RS) – Ch 2, turn. Place 1 ehdc in first st and each st across. (154)

Row 7 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc first st. [Sk 1 st, 2 hdc next st]. Repeat inside brackets until 1 st remains. 1 hdc last st. (154)

Row 8 (RS) – Ch 2, turn. 1 dc in first st. [Ehdc3tog starting in previous st, ch 1] . Repeat inside brackets until only 1 st remains. 1 dc last st. (154 sts total – 2 dc, 76 ehdc3tog, 76 ch 1 “eyes”)

Row 9 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc first st, [2 hdc in ch 1 “eye”, sk ehdc3tog]. Repeat inside brackets until 1 st remains. 1 hdc in last st. (154)

Row 10 (RS) – Ch 2, turn. Place 1 ehdc in first st and each st across. (154)

Row 11 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc first st. [Sk 1 st, 2 hdc next st]. Repeat inside brackets until 1 st remains. 1 hdc last st. (154)

Row 12 (RS) – Ch 2, turn. 1 ehdc each of the first 2 sts. [Ch 2, sk 2, 1 ehdc each of the next 2 sts]. Repeat inside brackets to end of row. (154 sts total – 78 ehdc, 38 ch 2 spcs)

Row 13 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc first st, 1 hdc next st. [2 hdc in ch 2 spc, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts]. Repeat inside brackets across row to end. (154)

Rows 14 through 119 – Repeat Rows 2 through 13 in order. You will end on a repeat of Row 11.

This means you will repeat Rows 2 through 13 a total of 8 times. After you have repeated the indicated Rows 8 times, you will have worked Row 109 and will be ready to start Row 110.

Then, you will repeat Rows 2 through 11. After you have repeated this set of rows, you will have worked Row 119.

When Row 119 is completed, continue with the border.

Prefer to have a Row Repeat Table to work from with each row and the row to repeat specified?
Get the PDF pattern!

Border

Round 1 (RS) –  Ch 1, turn 1 hdc first st and each remaining st across to end of this side. (154 sts on this side)

Ch 2, rotate 90 degrees to work down the side of the blanket. Down the side of the blanket, place 1 hdc in the side of each hdc and 2 hdc in the side of each ehdc and dc. (178 sts on this side)

At end of side, ch 2 and rotate 90 degrees to work along the bottom of the chains. Place 1 hdc in bottom of each ch across to end. (154 sts on this side)

At end of chs, ch 2 and rotate 90 degrees to work up the side of the blanket. Up the side of the blanket, place 1 hdc in the side of each hdc and 2 hdc in the side of each ehdc and dc. (178 sts on this side) 

At end of this side, ch 2 and sl st to first hdc made to close. (664 total stitches, 4 ch 2 sps (1 in each corner))

Note: If your stitch count doesn’t match in Round 1, it’s okay. As long as your blanket doesn’t ripple or warp, it’s okay to continue. The border doesn’t require any specific stitch count. 

Round 2 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. [(1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in ch 2 spc. 1 sc in 3LO each st to next ch 2 spc]. Repeat inside brackets 4 times total. Sl st to first sc made in round to close.  (672 sts, 4 ch 2 spcs)

Round 3 (RS) – Ch 2, turn. [1 ehdc each st across to next ch 2 spc, (2 ehdc, ch 2, 2 ehdc) in ch 2 spc]. Repeat inside brackets 4 times total. 1 st remains. 1 ehdc last st. Sl st to first ehdc made to close. (688 sts, 4 ch 2 spcs)

Round 4 (RS) – Ch 2, do not turn.  [1 ehdc each st across to next ch 2 spc, (2 ehdc, ch 2, 2 ehdc) in ch 2 spc]. Repeat inside brackets 4 times total. 3 sts remain. 1 ehdc each of the remaining 3 sts. Sl st to first ehdc made to close. (704 sts, 4 ch 2 spcs)

Note: The stitches in the ch 2 spc can hide the first st after the ch space. Push these to the side if needed.

Round 5 (RS) – Ch 1, do not turn. [1 hdc each st across to next ch 2 spc, (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in ch 2 spc]. Repeat inside brackets 4 times total. 5 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 5 sts. Sl st to first hdc made to close. (712 sts, 4 ch 2 spcs)

Round 6 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in 3LO each of the first 6 sts. (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in ch 2 spc. [1 sc in 3LO each st to next ch 2 spc, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in ch 2 spc]. Repeat inside brackets 3 times total. 1 sc in 3LO each remaining st to end. Sl st to first sc made to close. (720 sts, 4 ch 2 spcs)

Round 7 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. [1 sc each st to ch 2 spc, 3 sc in ch 2 spc]. Repeat inside brackets 4 times total. 7 stitches remain. 1 sc each of the remaining 7 sts. Sl st to first sc made in round to close. (732 sts)

Tie off, cut yarn and weave ends. You’re done!

About the Millie Crochet Throw Pattern

I’ve had the stitch pattern for “Millie” stuck in my head for a long time.

Way back when my lovely designer friend Agat of Made by Gootie and I were planning our first Blanket CAL, Harmony, I came up with this stitch pattern and wanted to use it.

One thing led to another and I ended up creating a totally different pattern for the CAL… but that doesn’t mean “Millie” left my thoughts.

In 2023, I designed the Millie Hanging Baskets which were a huge hit and a lot of fun to crochet. This basket pattern included the stitch pattern I’ve been calling Millie.

I finally decided to use this stitch pattern for one of my parts in our current Blanket CAL, Tranquility.

And, because I really, really loved how my part turned out in the Tranquility Blanket, I decided that it really needed to be it’s own free crochet throw pattern.

I expanded the stitch pattern (check out my Part 3 of the Tranquility Blanket CAL to see the difference) to provide extra drape and not use quite as much yarn as it would if it was all made like Part 3.

I absolutely love how the full version of the Millie Crochet Throw Blanket turned out and I hope you do, too.

What yarn should I use to make this Crochet Throw Blanket Pattern?

This free crochet throw pattern uses Sirdar Country Classic Worsted, which is a Medium (4) weight 50% Merino Wool and 50% Acrylic.

You can use almost any fiber or blend of yarn that you like in the Medium (4) weight range, really.

Something to note, though, is that “Medium (4)” can mean a lot of things. Some Medium 4 yarns are “Aran” which means they’re thicker and closer to a Bulky (5) weight. Some Medium (4) yarns are “Worsted” feel like they’re the perfect thickness. And some of them are lighter, feeling closer to a DK (3) yarn.

The Sirdar Country Classic Worsted is on the thinner side of Medium (4) while still technically being a Medium (4) yarn.

What I’m saying is not all Medium yarns are the same and you may notice that your gauge swatch for this free crochet throw pattern may be a little off if you use a different yarn. You may need to go up or down hook sizes to match gauge if you switch yarn.

Whether you mind the finished size being off from what’s listed is totally up to you, of course!

Love the Millie Crochet Throw Pattern? Share the love and Pin it to Pinterest!

That’s all there is to it! I hope you enjoyed this free crochet throw pattern and I hope you and your loved ones stay warm and cozy this winter.

Want to get the PDF version of this crochet blanket pattern? Get your copy on Etsy by clicking the button below!

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If you loved this crochet blanket pattern, why not check out some of my other crochet blanket patterns?

• Want to know more about crochet blanket sizes and how to make the size that’s right for you? Check out my Crochet Blanket Sizes post.
• Want to crochet a blanket with textured, vertical ribbing? Check out the Casey Blanket!
• Love the vertical ribbing in the Casey Blanket but want to up your game? The Aspen Throw has diagonal ribbing and is also pretty easy!
• Interested in crochet blankets that have a lot of interesting details and keep you interested the whole way through? You’ll love the Harmony Throw Blanket and the Serenity Throw Blanket.
• If you’ve never made a temperature blanket, why not make this year the year? Check out my step-by-step walk through on how to plan your own temperature blanket.
• Love to make baby blankets? I have some lovely patterns! Check out the Avery Baby Blanket, the Piper Baby Blanket, the Something New Baby Blanket or the Rising Star Baby Blanket.