The Hazel Beanie
If you’re looking for a crochet beanie that will keep your head warm and dry while looking super cute on all of your adventures, you’ll love the Hazel Beanie. This free crochet beanie pattern comes in 5 sizes, has a ton of texture and is perfect for the fall and winter.
Designed to fit comfortably without being too snug or too loose, the Hazel Beanie has a classic fit that will be a staple in your winter wear.
There is no denying that I love a good beanie. They’re easily my favorite cold weather accessory and I love how different each beanie can be. This season, I wanted to design a warm and cozy beanie that had a lot of texture and visual interest without being too bulky. I think this free crochet beanie pattern hit the mark!
With simple ribbing and the gorgeous Suzette Stitch, this free crochet beanie pattern is a super cute crochet accessory and is easier to crochet than it looks!
This free crochet beanie pattern is super warm and cozy!
I brought my sample of the Hazel Beanie with me when my husband and I went out to a state park here in Northern Oregon on a cold, slightly rainy day. The rain can’t stop us from enjoying nature, especially when we are both outfitted with cozy crochet accessories to keep us warm.
I needed to take pictures for this free crochet beanie pattern, of course, but I also wanted to test just how well the beanie did out in the weather.
It was 38 degrees Fahrenheit (according to my car thermometer), cloudy and it was lightly raining as we walked several miles through the trees, ferns and moss of this state park.
I am happy to report that the Hazel Beanie absolutely held up. My head and ears stayed super warm and toasty, the beanie was comfortable (despite wearing my glasses) and my head stayed dry.
After spending about 3 hours out and about in the rain, I was pleased to see that when I took off the beanie, my head and hair were still dry and I didn’t have to go through a big thaw out with the heater on.
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Yarn Used in This Pattern
For this free crochet beanie pattern, I used We Crochet’s Twill in the colorway Crabapple. I am fortunate to have been gifted this yarn from We Crochet specifically for this pattern.
Twill is a medium (4) worsted weight yarn that is made from 100% Super Wash Merino Wool. It comes in a variety of rich colors that it was honestly hard to choose just one but I am absolutely thrilled with the Crabapple colorway.
This was my first experience using Twill and I have to say that it was absolutely fantastic to work with. The stitch definition is amazing, the yarn has just the slightest stretch to it, it didn’t split at all and it is fantastically soft.
Best of all – Super Wash Merino Wool is warm and durable. While the stitches I decided to use for this free crochet beanie pattern lend a hand to the density and warmth, the wool yarn absolutely helps hold the warmth in and the wet cold out.
5 sizes!? Yep!
I know adults aren’t the only ones who need to keep themselves warm and cozy, so I made sure to design this free crochet beanie pattern in 5 sizes. The sizes range from adult large all the way down to toddler sizes.
If you think the designated size might be a little too small for yourself or the person you’re crocheting the beanie for, I would err on the side of caution and go up one size.
The heights of the beanie are similar enough that going up a size won’t make the beanie too tall. Especially in the smaller sizes, sizing up won’t be a bad thing – kiddos grow so fast, after all!
This free crochet beanie pattern was designed with 2 inches of Negative Ease. This means that the actual measurement of the beanie will be 2 inches smaller than your head circumference.
This accommodates for the stretch of the stitches used and how the beanie will slightly stretch over time. Your beanie should fit nicely once made, without being too tight or too lose.
Keep this Negative Ease in mind when choosing your size. There’s a note explaining what Negative Ease means in more detail below.
Where to Get this Crochet Beanie Pattern
The Hazel Beanie is a free crochet beanie pattern in this blog post. Scroll down to view the free version.
However, if you’d like a more robust pattern with a photo tutorial, the steps for the photo tutorial written out in full sentences and a printer friendly version of the PDF, I recommend you purchase the PDF pattern.
The PDF pattern also comes with instructions on how to customize the size of the beanie, if needed, which is not included in the free crochet beanie pattern.
With the PDF pattern, you will receive a detailed photo tutorial for Rows 1 through 8 which will set you up to work this crochet beanie pattern with confidence. The photos include highlighted stitches and details with arrows or dots, when necessary. It also includes photos for finishing the beanie and the special stitches and techniques.
SKILL LEVEL
Advanced Beginner/Light Intermediate – This free crochet beanie pattern uses stitches and techniques that most advanced beginner crocheters should be comfortable with. You should know how to chain, single crochet, double crochet and be familiar with skipping stitches and working 2 stitches into 1 stitch.
There are 2 techniques and 1 stitch that are slightly more advanced. The two techniques are working in the 3rd Loop Only (3LO) and Back Loop Only (BLO). The special stitch is the yarn over slip stitch (yoslst). All of these techniques are fairly straightforward and are explained in detail below.
MATERIALS
Worsted Medium (4) weight yarn of your choice. You will need approximately:
Toddler: 95 grams / 142 yards
Child: 115 grams / 172 yards
Teen/Small Adult: 140 grams / 209 yards
Adult Medium: 170 grams / 254 yards
Adult Large: 200 grams / 298 yards
YARN USED
We Crochet’s Twill in colorway Crabapple. This yarn is 100% Superwash Merino Wool.
Optional Materials
Faux fur pom pom or pom pom made from yarn with a pom pom maker – 1 per beanie made.
TOOLS
5 mm (H-8) hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers, if you prefer them
GAUGE
16 hdc x 11 rows = Approximately 4 inches by 4 inches.
Stitch gauge matters more than row gauge. The stitch gauge determines the height of the beanie, so it is more important. Row gauge can easily be made up for by repeating rows to reach the necessary size.
Note: I am a tight crocheter, so my tension is usually tighter than others. Learn more about gauge and what this means here.
FINISHED SIZE(S)
Size | Head CIR. | Beanie CIR. | Beanie Height |
Toddler | 18 inches | 16 inches | 7 inches |
Child | 19 inches | 17 inches | 7.5 inches |
Teen/Adult S | 21 inches | 19 inches | 8 inches |
Adult M | 22 inches | 20 inches | 9 inches |
Adult L | 23 inches | 21.5 inches | 10 inches |
*CIR. = Circumference, S = Small, M = Medium, L = Large
ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)
- Ch – Chain
- Sl st – Slip stitch
- Sc – Single crochet
- Hdc – Half double crochet
- Dc – Double Crochet
- Yoslst – Yarn Over Slip Stitch **
- BLO – Back Loop Only **
- 3LO – 3rd Loop Only **
- Sk – Skip
- St(s) – Stitch(es)
- RS – Right Side
- WS – Wrong Side
- Approx – Approximately
- **See description of Special Stitch
NOTES
- Chain 1 to begin a new row does not count as a stitch.
- This beanie is constructed in rows which creates a flat, long rectangle. The beanie is then seamed along the first and final row, then cinched at the top to create the beanie shape.
- The brim of the beanie has ribbing, the top of the beanie has single crochets.
- This free crochet beanie pattern comes with 5 sizes. If you prefer to customize the size, you can find instructions on how to do so within the PDF pattern.
- The side of the work that will be the top of the hat starts and ends with single crochets. This helps shape the beanie when cinched. The side with these single crochets WILL curl. Nothing is wrong with your work and you do not need to undo anything.
- This pattern is designed to have 2 inches of Negative Ease. This means the finished head circumference will be smaller than your actual head size. Please see “Negative Ease” notes below.
- […] – Repeats are listed inside brackets
- (…) – Indicates to work all stitches in the same space.
- (…) – Stitch counts are listed at the end of the row in parentheses and bold italics.
“Negative Ease”
This crochet beanie was designed to have Negative Ease, which means the finished measurement will be smaller than the actual head measurement. Because the stitches and stitch pattern used in this beanie have a stretchy quality, Negative Ease will ensure that the beanie is not too big, stretches to fit comfortably and does not stretch out too much over time to become unwearable.
Pattern Layout Note
All sizes for this free crochet beanie pattern are listed separately for clarity of instructions. Do not cut yarn after completing your final row. Finishing instructions for all sizes are included after the Adult Large size.
Special Stitch – Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yoslst)
This pattern uses the yarn over slip stitch – abbreviated: yoslst. You may have also heard this stitch called a half double slip stitch. This stitch creates 3 working loops exactly like a half double crochet does, but takes away the height of a half double crochet.
To create a yarn over slip stitch (yoslst), you will: Yarn over, insert your hook into the indicated stitch (or loop), yarn over and pull a loop through. You will now have 3 loops on your hook. Do not yarn over.
Pull the first loop (closest to the tip of your hook) through the two other loops.
This stitch works just like a regular slip stitch does, you just have one additional loop to pull through.
Special Techniques – Third Loop Only (3LO) and Back Loop Only (BLO)
It is very important to understand where both the back loops and the third loops of the stitches are to ensure your beanie turns out correctly.
The back loop will always be the furthest loop away from you, toward the back of the stitch. When instructed to work in “BLO”, work only in this loop.
The third loop will always be the closest loop to you and sits directly below the front loop of the stitch somewhat diagonally. When instructed to work in “3LO”, work only in this loop.
Both half double crochets and yarn over slip stitches have a 3rd loop.
The Hazel Beanie – Free Crochet Beanie Pattern
Toddler Size – Ch 30
Row 1 (RS) – 1 hdc 2nd ch from hook and next 25 sts, 1 sc last 3 sts. (29)
Row 2 (WS) – Ch 1 , turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 26 sts. (29)
Row 3 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 6 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) in BLO of next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (29)
Row 4 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 6 sts. (29)
Row 5 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 6 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (29)
Row 6 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 6 sts. (29)
Row 7 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 6 sts, 1 hdc 20 sts, 1 sc 3 sts. (29)
Row 8 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 26 sts. (29)
Rows 9 through 60 OR until work measures approx 16 inches in length, repeat Rows 3 through 8. For example, Row 9 will be a repeat of Row 3 and Row 10 will be a repeat of Row 4. Row 60 will be a repeat of Row 6.
Child Size – Ch 32
Row 1 (RS) – 1 hdc 2nd ch from hook and next 27 sts, 1 sc last 3 sts. (31)
Row 2 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 28 sts. (31)
Row 3 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 8 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) in BLO of next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (31)
Row 4 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 8 sts. (31)
Row 5 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 8 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (31)
Row 6 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 10x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 8 sts. (31)
Row 7 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 8 sts, 1 hdc 20 sts, 1 sc 3 sts. (31)
Row 8 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 28 sts. (31)
Rows 9 through 64 OR until work measures approx 17 inches in length, repeat Rows 3 through 8. For example, Row 9 will be a repeat of Row 3 and Row 10 will be a repeat of Row 4. Row 64 will be a repeat of Row 4.
Teen/Small Adult Size – Ch 36
Row 1 (RS) – 1 hdc 2nd ch from hook and next 31 sts, 1 sc last 3 sts. (35)
Row 2 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 32 sts. (35)
Row 3 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) in BLO of next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 11x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (35)
Row 4 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 11x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 10 sts. (35)
Row 5 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 11x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (35)
Row 6 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 11x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 10 sts. (35)
Row 7 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, 1 hdc 22 sts, 1 sc 3 sts. (35)
Row 8 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 32 sts. (35)
Rows 9 through 72 OR until work measures approx19 inches in length, repeat Rows 3 through 8. For example, Row 9 will be a repeat of Row 3 and Row 10 will be a repeat of Row 4. Row 72 will be a repeat of Row 6.
Adult Medium Size – Ch 40
Row 1 (RS) – 1 hdc 2nd ch from hook and next 35 sts, 1 sc last 3 sts. (39)
Row 2 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 36 sts. (39)
Row 3 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) in BLO of next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 13x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (39)
Row 4 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 13x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 10 sts. (39)
Row 5 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 13x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (39)
Row 6 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 13x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 10 sts. (39)
Row 7 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, 1 hdc 26 sts, 1 sc 3 sts. (39)
Row 8 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 36 sts. (39)
Rows 9 through 78 OR until work measures approx20 inches in length, repeat Rows 3 through 8. For example, Row 9 will be a repeat of Row 3 and Row 10 will be a repeat of Row 4. Row 78 will be a repeat of Row 6.
Adult Large Size – Ch 44
Row 1 (RS) – 1 hdc 2nd ch from hook and next 39 sts, 1 sc last 3 sts. (43)
Row 2 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 40 sts. (43)
Row 3 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) in BLO of next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 15x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (43)
Row 4 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 15x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 10 sts. (43)
Row 5 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1]. Repeat inside brackets 15x. 1 sc 3 remaining sts. (43)
Row 6 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 2 sts, [ (1 sc, 1 dc) next st, sk 1 st]. Repeat inside brackets 15x. 1 sc next st, 1 yoslst in 3LO 10 sts. (43)
Row 7 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc 3LO 10 sts, 1 hdc 30 sts, 1 sc 3 sts. (43)
Row 8 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 sc 3 sts, 1 yoslst 3LO 40 sts. (43)
Rows 9 through 84 OR until work measures approx 21.5-22 inches in length, repeat Rows 3 through 8. For example, Row 9 will be a repeat of Row 3 and Row 10 will be a repeat of Row 4. Row 84 will be a repeat of Row 6.
Finishing Instructions (All Sizes)
With our flat rectangle finished, it is now time to seam and cinch it into a beanie. You should still have your yarn attached to your rectangle. Chain 1 and prepare to turn your work.
Regardless of the size you’ve made, lay the beanie down flat with the right side facing up. The brim of the beanie should be toward you and the single crochets should be at the top.
Then, fold the bottom of the chains of Row 1 up to meet the last row worked. Align your base chains to meet your final row. The right side of your beanie should be inside the fold. The wrong side of your beanie should be on the outside.
The last row you worked will be on the bottom and the first row will be on the top. This is because we have chained 1 and “turned”.
We will seam the beanie into a cylinder by placing 1 slip stitch in each stitch on either edge across the row.
For the first 6 (toddler), 8 (child) or 10 (teen/small adult, adult medium and adult large) stitches, you will insert your hook into the bottom of the chain from Row 1 (both loops) and into the 3rd loop only of the last row completed. This ensures the ribbing continues somewhat seamlessly.
For all remaining stitches, place slip stitches into both the chain from your first row and the tops of the stitches from your final row.
This will seam the rectangle into a cylinder. You should have the same amount of slip stitches as the stitch count for the size you made.
Once seamed, you should now be at the top of the beanie and have a cylinder shape.
Cut your yarn but leave a long tail of approximately 8-10 inches. This tail will be used to cinch the top of the beanie closed. Pull the tail through your last slip stitch to secure it.
With a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail in and out of the sides of the single crochets.
No fancy seaming here, we are just working the needle in and out of the stitches until we reach the other end. This weaves the tail end through the stitches to ensure the top of the beanie cinches tightly. You don’t have to “perfectly” go in and out of each single crochet while doing this, if you miss a single crochet it won’t hurt anything.
Every 10 or so stitches, push the stitches you’ve weaved onto the tail back so that the beanie begins cinching.
Continue all the way around the top of the beanie until you meet the end. Pull the tail as tight as you can to cinch the top together (not so tight that you break your yarn, though).
Now that the top is cinched, there will be a small opening at the top. Secure the opening closed by sewing in one side of the cinch and out the other.
Make sure to go in different directions to close the hole. So, once you’ve gone one direction horizontally (as seen in the image above), weave through in an opposite direction vertically. You can do this as many times as preferred to ensure it is properly secured and closed tight. Tie off.
If you don’t want a pom, cut your yarn and weave in your ends. Turn your beanie “right side” out to hide the seam. You’re all done!
If you’d like to add a pom, don’t cut your yarn. You can use this tail to sew the pom on where the beanie cinches closed. Turn your beanie “right side” out first to hide the seam and then sew your pom on. The faux fur poms I purchased have an elastic loop that makes sewing the pom on easier.
Alternatively, you could also sew a button onto the inside of the beanie so that the elastic loop can be threaded through the beanie and attached, so that it is removable. Once your pom (or button for pom) is sewn on, trim your yarn and weave your ends.
You’re all done! Enjoy!
Did you love this free crochet beanie pattern? Make sure to share the love and Pin it to Pinterest!
That’s it for this free crochet beanie pattern! Isn’t it lovely? I hope you love crocheting the Hazel Beanie and I hope it keeps you warm and cozy this winter!
One of my greatest joys is seeing your finished crochet projects from my patterns or tutorials, so when you post to Instagram, don’t forget to tag me so I can show you some love! I’m @theloopholefoxcrochet. You can also share pictures on my recent posts on Facebook or within my Facebook group!
And don’t forget to pin this to your Pinterest boards, so you can remember it for later!
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Shannon | Designer & Editor
Shannon helps crocheters find their next project and build their skills with in depth tutorials and crochet patterns on her blog, theloopholefox.com.
With more than a decade of crochet experience, Shannon knows that understanding why we do something matters just as much as how we do it. She teaches new techniques and crochet stitches in depth so you can crochet with confidence.
If you loved this free crochet beanie pattern, why not check out some of my other hat patterns?
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The Jesse Beanie has faux-knit ribbing that you’ll absolutely love!
Looking for a fast and easy beanie? The Tuesday Beanie is for you!
Hi Shannon,
Beautiful beanie!!
Also, I am not sure if its just me or its the website, but there is no link to Pin your Pinterest picture to Pinterest. Just thought I’ll let you know 🙂
Oh gosh, thank you so much! I’ll look into why the Pinterest button isn’t working – Thanks for pointing that out!
The Hazel beanie is pretty. Thanks for sharing. I look forward to giving it a try in the very near future.
Thank you so much for your lovely comment! I hope you enjoy the pattern. 🙂
Thanks for the free pattern. I love it!
Aww thank you! I’m so glad you like it!
I just made this hat for our local oncology center. It is gorgeous! The pattern is so beautifully written and presented. Thank you!
Oh gosh, thank you so much! I’m so glad you enjoyed it and I love that you donated it to your local oncology center!