It’s finally time! The Christmas season is upon us. With Thanksgiving over, it’s finally time to put up our Christmas trees, wrap presents and decorate which, of course, includes stockings! I am so excited to present this crochet Christmas stocking pattern just in time for the season!
Inside this blog post, you’ll find the free crochet Christmas stocking pattern with a few pictures to help walk you through. I have also included the full, step by step video tutorial and links to the PDF patterns with full photo tutorials. You’ll have a bunch of stockings in no time!
Crochet Christmas Stockings with a Ton of Personality
I love this crochet Christmas stocking pattern so much that I’ve created like eight of them! I designed the first one, and then couldn’t stop creating them for my friends and family members. As you can see in the pictures throughout the crochet stocking pattern, I’ve created two different sets. A classic Christmas set and a fun and funky colored set. They’re adorable!
The best thing about this crochet Christmas stocking pattern is that these can be created completely using scrap yarn. You heard that right! These stockings take less than 2 ounces of yarn per color, so you can make lovely Christmas stockings for your family AND bust your stash! Win win.
Merry Christmas to me!
If you prefer a PDF version of this pattern, which includes a full photo tutorial, you can grab one on either my Ravelry or my Etsy shop by clicking the buttons below.
When I decided to design this crochet Christmas stocking pattern, I wanted it to have a ton of personality (of course) and be somewhat simple (of course). I landed on the block stitch and I am SO happy I did. These stockings are easy to create for any gender by changing your main color and you’ll still have the detail of the “pinstripe” running up the side.
Even my Grinch-y husband loved these stockings. So you know they’re a hit. 😉
Advanced Beginner – You should know how to: work in the round, close rounds, slip stitch, and half double crochet.
MATERIALS & TOOLS
This pattern is written to a medium (4) Aran weight yarn.
You will need two colors. A main color and a contrast color (Contrast color is for the toe, heel and band).
For your main color, you will need approximately 2.5 oz or 160 yards.
For your contract color, you will need approximately 1.5 oz or 80 yards.
All the yarn I used was scrap yarn left over from other projects. If you’re looking specifically for the colors I used, please see below. However, you can use your scrap yarn for this project, provided you have enough.
Big Twist Value in White (used on all stockings in photos), Red Heart Super Saver in Black (black stocking), Red Heart Ombre in Green Apple (green stocking), I Love This Yarn in Aubergine (red stocking), Red Heart Super Saver in Jade (teal stocking), Red Heart Super Saver in Medium Purple (purple stocking) and Big Twist Value in Taupe (grey stocking).
You will also need:
5 mm hook, scissors, tapestry needle and stitch markers.
If you’d like to have a ribbon loop to hang your stockings from like I did, you will also need ribbon of your choice for the accent on this hat. I purchased these from Amazon.
Alternatively, you could easily crochet a loop.
Gauge isn’t extremely important, but if you’d like your stocking to be approximately the same size as mine:
Once you’ve completed Round 9, fold your work in half. Your half circle should measure approximately 4.5 inches.
From heel to toe: Approximately 10 inches.
From heel to cuff: Approximately 10 inches.
Width: Approximately 5 inches.
This pattern is written in standard US terms.
- MC – Main color
- CC – Contrast Color
- ch(s) – Chain(s)
- sl st – Slip stitch
- sc – Single Crochet
- hdc – Half double crochet
- inc – increase (place 2 single crochet in one stitch)
- fphdc – Front post half double crochet * see special stitches below
- hdc2tog – Half double crochet two together *see special stitches below
- sc2tog – Single crochet two together * see special stitches below
- st – Stitch
- sk – Skip
- […] – Repeat inside brackets
- (#) – Number inside indicates stitch count
- This pattern is worked completely in closed rounds.
- The chain 1 at the beginning of the round never counts as a stitch and will not be referenced throughout the pattern.
- This means you should always place your first stitch of the round in the same stitch you chained out of.
- This also means when you slip stitch to close, you will slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, not the chain.
- This Christmas Crochet Stocking is worked from the toe up.
- The heel is an “afterthought” heel, meaning it is the last portion of the stocking that we crochet.
- For most of this pattern, you will not need to trim your yarn (unless you want to). We simply drop the yarn we aren’t using inside of the work, and pick it up later when we need it.
- If you want to trim your yarn every time or if you want to crochet a multicolor stocking, you will need to weave in many ends.
- When we switch color, we will not finish the last stitch with the new color. Rather, we will change color after the slip stitch. This hides the seam better. (There are pictures below to show you).
- This pattern calls for a Magic Circle – If you don’t know how to work a magic circle and would like to learn, you can check out my tutorial here.
- If you prefer not to work with magic circles, you can instead chain 4 and then slip stitch to the first chain made to create a circle.
This crochet stocking cap pattern calls for decreasing, or “sc2tog”. To single crochet two stitches together, you will:
Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull through as if you were going to work a single crochet. Now, instead of finishing the single crochet crochet, you will insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all five. Sc2tog complete!
This crochet stocking cap pattern calls for decreasing, or “hdc2tog”. To half double crochet two stitches together, you will:
Yarn over, insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull through as if you were going to work a half double crochet. Now, instead of finishing the half double crochet crochet, you will yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through. You will now have five loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all five. Hdc2tog complete!
This crochet stocking cap pattern calls for a “fphdc” or a front post half double crochet.
To work a fphdc, you are going to be working around the post of the stitch from the round below, not into the top of the stitch. With your right side facing you, you will yarn over, insert your hook in between the posts of the first and second stitch and then out between the second and third stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all three.
CHANGING COLOR AFTER SLIP STITCH
Step 1: Slip stitch to close.
Step 2: Introduce second color by pulling through the slip stitch.
Step 3: Chain 1 (if required for the pattern)
Step 4: Pull the tail end of the first color tight.
In my video tutorial, I show you all of these steps in detail. Don’t forget to check it out if you need to!
How to Make this Crochet Christmas Stocking
R1 – Using your CC, create a magic circle and place 6 sc. Sl st to close. (6)
R2 – ch 1, inc each stitch around. Sl st to close. (12)
R3 – ch 1, [sc 1 st, inc] Repeat 6x. Sl st to close. (18)
R4 – ch 1, [1 sc 2 sts, inc] Repeat 6x. Sl st to close. (24)
R5 – ch 1, [1 sc 3 sts, inc] Repeat 6x. Sl st to close. (30)
R6 – ch 1, [1 sc 4 sts, inc] Repeat 6x. Sl st to close. (36)
R7 – ch 1, [1 sc 5 sts, inc] Repeat 6x. Sl st to close. (42)
From here, your stitch count will always be 42 unless otherwise indicated.
R8 & R9 – ch 1, place 1 sc in each stitch around.
R10 – ch 1 and sc in same space. [ch 2, sk 2, sc] Repeat around until 2 st remain. Ch 2, sl st to close. (14 ch 2 spaces)
*Change color to MC
R11 – ch 1, place 3 hdc in each ch 2 space around. Sl st to close. (14 3 hdc clusters)
*Change to CC
R12 – ch 1 and sc in same space. [ch 2, sc in space between 3 hdc clusters] Repeat around until 2 st remain. Ch 2, sl st to close. (14 ch 2 spaces)
For rounds 13 through 27, repeat R11 and R12 in sequence. Make sure to switch color at the end of each round. R27 should be a repeat of R11.
CREATING HEEL OPENING
After R27, switch to CC.
R28 – Part 1:
Ch 1, sc same stitch and next 20 stitches. Ch 21 and, being careful not to twist your chains, slip stitch to the first sc of the round.
*It can be very helpful to place a stitch marker in the first sc and leave it there until the stocking is finished. We will be coming back to this stitch later for the heel.
You should now have a “round” made of 21 sc and 21 chains.
You may also notice that your work has naturally turned. If it hasn’t, turn your work so that you will work along the wrong side.
R28 – Part 2:
Continuing to work with your CC and working along the wrong side of R27, [ch2, sk 2, sc next] Repeat around until you have 2 sts remaining before your CC sc. ch 2 and sc in 1st ch of your 21 chains from R28 Part 1. [ch 2, sk 2, sc next]. Repeat across the chs until you have 2 ch remaining. Ch 2, sl st into the first ch 2 spc created in Part 2.
*Switch to MC, TURN.
R29 – ch 1, starting with the ch 2 spaces along the chains and working your way around the body of the stocking, place 3 hdc in each ch 2 space around. Sl st to close. (14 3 hdc clusters)
*Change color to CC
R30 – ch 1 and sc in same space. [ch 2, sc in space between 3 hdc clusters] Repeat around until 2 st remain. Ch 2, sl st to close. (14 ch 2 spaces)
*Change color to MC
R31 – ch 1, place 3 hdc in each ch 2 space around. Sl st to close. (14 3 hdc clusters)
For rounds 32 through 47, repeat R30 and R31 in sequence. Make sure to switch color at the end of each round. R47 should be a repeat of R31.
Trim MC, continue with CC.
R48 – ch 1, place 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to close.
R49 through 52 – ch 1, place 1 hdc in the same stitch, fphdc next. [hdc 1, fphdc 1] Repeat around. Sl st to close.
R53 – ch 1, place 1 sc in each st around. Sl st to close.
Trim CC, weave ends.
Join CC in first sc from R28 Part 1 with a chain 1.
R1 – sc in the same stitch and in the next 20 stitches. Rotate your work so you are now working along the chains created in R28 Part 1, and place 21 sc across. Sl st to close. (42)
*If you have trouble finding the chains to stitch into, just crochet 21 sc along the chains as evenly spaced as possible.
R2 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 17 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 17 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (38)
R3 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 15 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 15 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (34)
R4 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 13 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 13 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (30)
R5 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 11 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 11 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (26)
R6 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 9 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 9 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (22)
R7 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 7 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 7 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (18)
R8 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 5 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 5 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (14)
R9 – ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc next 3 sts, sc2tog 2 times. 1 sc next 3 sts, sc2tog. Sl st to close. (12).
Trim CC, leaving a long tail to seam the heel.
Turn your stocking inside out and seam the small opening in the heel with whichever seaming method you prefer. I used my tapestry needle and used the whip stitch to seam.
Weave in any ends that might be left over.
From here, you can slip a ribbon between two stitches in the last row of the stocking to create the loop, or you can crochet a loop on if you prefer.
You’re all done!
You now have your Fireplace Christmas Stocking! How exciting! Aren’t they adorable? Despite looking a bit intimidating to begin, this crochet Christmas stocking pattern works up quickly, so you can make as many as you like in as many colors as you like.
I didn’t stop at one… I’ve made like eight now. What colors will you make yours in?
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