Crochet Santa Hat Pattern (Two Sizes!) – Free

It’s beginning to look a lot like Crochet Santa Hat patterns! I mean… Christmas! Seriously, though, who wouldn’t love an adorable Santa Hat? Open presents in style this year with this Festive Crochet Santa Hat pattern.

Including 2 sizes (Adult and Child), this pattern will walk you through making a Crochet Santa Hat or a Crochet Elf Hat fairly quickly. With interesting yet easy texture, these hats will fit right into your holiday celebrations.

This pattern was updated on November 8, 2024. If you are currently making a hat from the previous version of this free pattern, you can still use the old version of the pattern by clicking the link. If you have come here from Pinterest and the hat looks different, you have clicked on an older pin that I don’t have the ability to remove. If you prefer the older, “original” hat, click the link to go to it.

Super Cute Crochet Santa Hat (Or Elf Hat!)

One thing I really love in any crochet beanie or hat is texture. And I’m not talking about extreme, difficult texture that’s going to take ages to work up. I love simple textures that are actually easy to crochet but look intricate once finished.

When updating this Christmas stocking cap pattern, I played around for a while with different textures and ideas before finally falling in love with one. The texture in this crochet stocking cap is so easy and adds a little extra personality to the standard Santa Hat.

If you can half double crochet and skip stitches, you can easily follow this pattern and work up your own festive Crochet Santa Hat in no time.

Of course, nothing Santa themed is ever complete without Santa’s belt, right? These festive Crochet Santa Hats include built in spacing to weave a ribbon through to create Santa’s classic belt (or an elf belt!).

Finished with a pom at the very tip of the crochet stocking cap, you can’t mistake these hats for anything but festive, Christmas fun.

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Where to get this Free Crochet Santa Hat Pattern

This Festive Crochet Santa Hat Pattern is a free pattern in this blog post. Scroll down to view the free version.

However, if you’d like a more robust pattern with photo tutorials, the steps for the photo tutorial written out in full sentences and a printer friendly version of the PDF, I recommend you purchase the PDF pattern.

With the PDF pattern, you will receive photo tutorials for the special stitches and techniques as well as a detailed photo tutorial for each row and round which will set you up to work this Crochet Santa Hat Pattern with confidence. The photos include details with highlights, arrows and dots to help identify all the stitches and their placement.

Crochet Santa Hat Pattern Information

Skill Level

Intermediate – Crocheters looking to follow this pattern should know how to:

• Read a crochet pattern – There is NOT a video tutorial for this Crochet Santa Hat Pattern
• Work the basic stitches – Chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet
• Work decreases, such as half double crochet 2 together, or be willing to learn
  • The decrease in this pattern is a modified hdc2tog. Please ensure you look over the special stitches
• Know how to Yarn Over Slip Stitch (AKA hdc sl st) or be willing to learn
• Crochet only in the 3rd Loop of a half double crochet/yarn over slip stitch or be willing to learn
• Create chain 2 spaces
• Work into chain spaces
• Place multiple stitches into one stitch
• Skip stitches and end repeats on skipped stitches
• Place stitches into the side of stitches or rows (as if we were placing stitches in a border).

This free Crochet Santa Hat pattern is NOT a beginner pattern! Advanced Beginners who have the skills listed above or are willing to learn them should have no issue following the pattern, especially if the PDF pattern is purchased which comes with detailed photo tutorials. Because of the shaping, modified stitches and switching from rows to rounds, this pattern is considered Intermediate but is not inherently difficult.

If you are unfamiliar with any of these techniques or aren’t familiar with reading patterns, I highly recommend the PDF as it will walk you through everything step by step.

Materials

Medium (4) Worsted Weight Yarn of your choice in any fiber but cotton (cotton yarn will be too thin to meet gauge). You will need 2 colors.

You will need approximately:

Size	Color A	Color B
Child	20 g / 44 yds	75 g / 165 yds
Adult	29 g / 64 yds	95 g / 209 yds

Color A = White/Cream (Brim).
Color B = Red or Green (Main Hat portion).

Yarn Used: We Crochet’s Swish Worsted in colorways Nutmeg Heather (cream), Cranberry Heather (red) and Forest Heather (green). This yarn is 100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool. 50 g / 110 yds per skein.

Tools & Notions

5 mm (H-8) Hook – Check out my favorite crochet hooks!
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
Optional – Faux fur pom or yarn pom – I purchased my faux fur poms on Amazon.
Optional – ½ inch wide ribbon for the “belt” – I purchased velvet ½ inch ribbon from Amazon but any ribbon you like will do.

Gauge

15 hdc x 11 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches

Note: I am a tight crocheter; my tension is usually tighter than others. Learn more about gauge and what this means here.

Size

Size	Head Circumference	Hat Circumference	Brim Height	Hat Length
Child	19 inches	17 inches	1.5 inches	18 inches
Adult	22 inches	20 inches	2 inches	21 inches

Hat Length includes Brim Height. Hat Length does not include pom.

Abbreviations (US TERMS)

• Ch – Chain
• Sl st – Slip stitch
• Sc – Single crochet
• Hdc – Half double crochet
• Dc – Double crochet
• Hdc-sc2tog – Modified hdc 2 together** 
• Yoslst – Yarn Over Slip Stitch**
• 3LO – 3rd Loop Only **
• St(s) – Stitch(es)
• Sk – Skip
• Spc(s) – Space(es)
• RS – Right Side
• WS – Wrong Side
• **See description of Special Stitch

Notes

• Chain 1 and chain 2 to begin a new row or round do not count as a stitches.
• All rounds are closed rounds. We will always slip stitch to the first stitch of the round to close.
• Slip stitches that close rounds do NOT count as stitches. Learn more here.
• This hat is constructed from the bottom up. See “Construction” note.
• The pattern has both listed in one set of instructions, with the chain/stitch requirements and stitch counts broken down in parenthesis: Example: Child (Adult)
• The brim is designed to have 2 inches of Negative Ease. This means the finished brim circumference will be smaller than your actual head size but will stretch to fit comfortably and does not stretch out too much over time to become unwearable. 
• […] – Repeats are listed inside brackets
• (..(…)) – Stitch counts are listed at the end of the row in parentheses and bold italics, for example: (8 (10))

Special Stitch – Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yoslst)

The Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yoslst) is a technique that modifies a slip stitch to be similar to a half double crochet but with the height of a single crochet.

To make a yoslst, you will: Yarn over, insert hook into the indicated stitch (or loop), yarn over and pull a loop through. 3 loops on hook. Do not yarn over. Pull the first loop (closest to the tip of your hook) through the other two loops. Yoslt complete!

The Yarn Over Slip Stitch is just like making a normal slip stitch except we will have one extra loop to pull the yarn through. This extra loop builds height so the stitch is about as tall as a single crochet but has a 3rd Loop, just like half double crochet stitches do.

Special Stitch – 3rd Loop Only (3LO)

We use the 3LO (third loop only) of half double crochet stitches and yarn over slip stitches to create the ribbing in the brim of this Crochet Santa Hat pattern.

When we turn our work after working a row of half double crochet stitches or yarn over slip stitches, we will see the wrong side of the stitch. Unlike other stitches, hdc and yoslst have a 3rd loop. The 3rd loop is directly below the front loop of the stitch and sits diagonally.

When instructed to place a stitch into the “3LO”,  we will insert our hook ONLY into this loop, not into the top of the stitch.

In the image above, we are looking at the wrong side of half double crochet stitches. The 3rd Loops are highlighted yellow. A black arrow goes through one of these 3rd Loops. When instructed to work into the 3rd Loop Only, you will use only this loop.

In the image above, we are looking at the wrong side of yarn over slip stitches. The 3rd Loops are highlighted yellow. A black arrow goes through one of these 3rd Loops. When instructed to work into the 3rd Loop Only, you will use only this loop.

Special Technique – Modified Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc-sc2tog)

The hdc-sc2tog (half double crochet – single crochet 2 together) is a modified hdc decrease that makes 2 stitches into 1 stitch and is not as bulky as the typical hdc2tog.

To make a hdc-sc2tog, you will: Yarn over, insert hook into first indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. 3 loops on hook. Then, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. 4 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on hook. Hdc-sc2tog complete!

Special Note – How to Read this Crochet Santa Hat pattern

Both sizes for this hat pattern are on one set of instructions to keep this pattern short and clear. The instructions are generally all the same but, of course, we will work more rows/rounds and have more stitches for the larger sizes.

The row/stitch/height measurements will all be listed in order of size from smallest to biggest. For example: Child (Adult).

For example: “Ch 9 (11)”. This means you will make 9 chains to start a Child sized brim and make 11 chains to start an Adult sized brim.

For example, in the stitch count: (8 (10). This means you will have (8 sts for Child (10 sts for Adult)).

Special Note – Construction of Santa Hat

This Crochet Santa Hat is worked from the bottom (brim) up. The pattern is broken down into 4 parts.

In Part 1, we create the brim. We crochet in rows to create a long band that becomes the brim. This construction style offers a much more comfortable brim in hats because of its stretchy quality. We will seam the long band into a circle for the brim at the end of Part 1.

In Part 2, we crochet 8 Rounds to build a little bit of height into the hat before we begin shaping it. We also create openings for the ribbon “belt”. If you prefer not to have the openings or use a ribbon, you can ignore Rounds 2 and 3 and work an additional set of Rounds 4 and 5 instead.

In Part 3, we begin shaping the hat which requires slow decreasing to make the signature cone shape of a stocking cap. Both sizes are listed on one set of instructions despite the difference in stitch count. For the Adult Size, you’ll work all rounds as listed in order. For Child Size, the instructions will require you to “jump” to a certain round and ignore (do not work) a set of rounds.

“Jump” means you will completely ignore an indicated set of rounds in the Child Size to get to the round you need to work to decrease the hat properly.

Finally, in Part 4, we finish the hat by attaching the pom, seaming the small hole at the tip of the hat closed and weaving a ribbon into the openings to create “belts”.

Special Note – The seam will travel

When working in closed rounds (slip stitching to the first stitch made in a round to close), a seam is made in our work. 

Because this Crochet Santa Hat is textured and therefore worked in turned rounds, we typically expect for the seam to not travel (or move diagonally).

However, by decreasing very slowly through most of the pattern, the seam will travel diagonally.

The good news is: The seam is fairly unnoticeable. The texture in the pattern hides the seam very well despite it moving diagonally. 

There’s no getting around the seam traveling in this pattern with this texture. Some yarn may show the seam a little more than this but it still shouldn’t be unsightly.

Crochet Santa Hat Pattern

Part 1 – Creating the Brim – Both Sizes

With Color A (white/cream): Ch 9 (11)

Row 1 (RS) – 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each across. (8 (10))

Row 2 (WS) – Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), turn. 1 sc first st, 1 yoslst in 3LO of each of the remaining sts across. (8 (10))

Row 3 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in 3LO of each st across until 1 st remains. 1 hdc last st. (8 (10))

Row 4 through 60 (72) – Repeat Rows 2 and 3 in order. You’ll end on a repeat of Row 2.

Brim will measure approximately 17 (20) inches long, though may need to be stretched slightly to achieve length. As long as the brim stretches slightly (.25 to .5 inches), that’s okay. If the brim needs to be stretched a lot (1 inch or more), the gauge is off and will need to be remade with a larger hook.

SEAM THE BRIM

Ch 1, turn. The right side of the brim will be facing. Bring Row 1 up behind your last row worked – Row 60 (72) – and align the top of the stitches from the final row to the bottom of the chains from the first row.

Sl st the first 2 stitches together by inserting hook into 3LO of yoslst from Row 60 (72) and into bottom of chain in first row. 

Continue seaming the brim by placing a sl st through the 3LO of yoslst from final row and bottom of chain from Row 1 until 1 st remains on each short edge of the brim. There are no 3rd loops on these stitches, so sl st them together normally.

Once seamed, turn the brim inside out to hide the seam. This will be your right side (or outside of the hat). We will now transition to working in rounds and will work along the long edge where the “normal” single crochet and half double crochet stitches are (the stitches that were not worked in the 3rd Loop only). Your working yarn will already be in position to work along this edge. 

Part 2 – Building Height for Comfort – Both Sizes

Part 2 builds a little bit of height so the hat fits comfortably before shaping/tapering. Work Rounds 1 through 8 for both sizes.

Round 1 (RS) – Ch 1, [1 sc in side of next 9 (11) sts, 2 sc in side of next st]. Repeat inside brackets 6 times total. Sl st to first sc to close. (66 (78))

Change to Color B (red or green) after final stitch of Round 1. Use Color B through the rest of the pattern.

Round 2 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 3 hdc first st, sk 2 sts. [3 hdc next st, sk 2 sts]. Repeat inside brackets to end of round. Sl st to first hdc made to close. (66 (78))

Round 3 (RS) – Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), turn. Place 1 dc in first st. Ch 2, sk 2 sts, [1 dc next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts]. Repeat inside brackets to the end of the round. You will end with ch 2, sk 2. Sl st to first dc to close. (66 sts total – 22 dc, 22 ch 2 spcs (78 sts total – 26 dc, 26 ch 2 spcs))

Round 4 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. [3 hdc in ch 2 spc, sk dc]. Repeat inside brackets to end of round. Sl st to first hdc made to close. (66 (78))

Round 5 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in each st around. Sl st to first hdc made to close. (66 (78))

Round 6 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 3 hdc first st, sk 2 sts. [3 hdc next st, sk 2 sts]. Repeat inside brackets to end of round. Sl st to first hdc made to close. (66 (78))

Round 7 (RS) – Repeat Round 5. (66 (78))

Round 8 (WS) – Repeat Round 6. (66 (78))

Hat will be approximately 4.5 (5) inches tall so far. Do not cut yarn.

Continue with “Part 3 – Shaping the Hat”. If needed, use a stitch marker to mark Round 8 to keep track of your rounds.

Part 3 – Shaping the Hat – Both Sizes

Part 3 will guide us through decreasing every 4th round. This slow decreasing shapes the hat into the classic stocking hat shape and creates the long, tapered end. To keep this pattern as short as possible, both sizes are listed in one set of instructions despite the stitch count difference from Child to Adult Size.

For Adult Size, you will continue with Round 9 and work all the way through Round 54. For Child Size, you will IGNORE Rounds 9 through 16 and instead jump directly to working Round 17 and then work all rounds through Round 54.

ADULT SIZE ONLY CONTINUE:

Round 9 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 6 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 11 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 5 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 5 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (72 – Adult Only)

Round 10 – Repeat Round 6. (72 – Adult Only)
Round 11 – Repeat Round 5. (72 – Adult Only)
Round 12 – Repeat Round 6. (72 – Adult Only)

Round 13 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 5 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 10 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 5 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 5 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (66 – Adult Only)

Round 14 – Repeat Round 6. (66 – Adult Only)
Round 15 – Repeat Round 5. (66 – Adult Only)
Round 16 – Repeat Round 6. (66 – Adult Only)

CHILD & ADULT CONTINUE:
If you are working Child Size, you will begin Part 3 with Round 17 and will work through Round 54. For the adult size, you will continue with Round 17 and continue through Round 54.

Round 17 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 5 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 9 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 4 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 4 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (60 – both sizes)

Round 18 – Repeat Round 6. (60 – both sizes)
Round 19 – Repeat Round 5. (60 – both sizes)
Round 20 – Repeat Round 6. (60 – both sizes)

Round 21 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 4 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 8 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 4 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 4 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (54 – both sizes)

Round 22 – Repeat Round 6. (54 – both sizes)
Round 23 – Repeat Round 5. (54 – both sizes)
Round 24 – Repeat Round 6. (54 – both sizes)

Round 25 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 4 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 7 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 3 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 3 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (48 – both sizes)

Round 26 – Repeat Round 6. (48 – both sizes)
Round 27 – Repeat Round 5. (48 – both sizes)
Round 28 – Repeat Round 6. (48 – both sizes)

Round 29 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 3 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 6 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 3 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 3 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (42 – both sizes)

Round 30 – Repeat Round 6. (42 – both sizes)
Round 31 – Repeat Round 5. (42 – both sizes)
Round 32 – Repeat Round 6. (42 – both sizes)

Round 33 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 3 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 5 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 2 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 2 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (36 – both sizes)

Round 34 – Repeat Round 6. (36 – both sizes)
Round 35 – Repeat Round 5. (36 – both sizes)
Round 36 – Repeat Round 6. (36 – both sizes)

Round 37 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 2 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 4 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 2 sts remain. 1 hdc each of the remaining 2 sts. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (30 – both sizes)

Round 38 – Repeat Round 6. (30 – both sizes)
Round 39 – Repeat Round 5. (30 – both sizes)
Round 40 – Repeat Round 6. (30 – both sizes)

Round 41 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each of the first 2 sts, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 3 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 1 st remains. 1 hdc in last st. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (24 – both sizes)

Round 42 – Repeat Round 6. (24 – both sizes)
Round 43 – Repeat Round 5. (24 – both sizes)
Round 44 – Repeat Round 6. (24 – both sizes)

Round 45 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in first st, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc each of the next 2 sts, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. 1 st remains. 1 hdc in last st. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (18 – both sizes)

Round 45 – Repeat Round 6. (18 – both sizes)
Round 46 – Repeat Round 5. (18 – both sizes)
Round 47 – Repeat Round 6. (18 – both sizes)

Round 49 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc in first st, hdc-sc2tog. [1 hdc next st, hdc-sc2tog]. Repeat inside brackets 5 times total. Sl st to first hdc made in round to close. (12 – both sizes)

Round 50 – Repeat Round 6. (12 – both sizes)
Round 51 – Repeat Round 5. (12 – both sizes)
Round 52 – Repeat Round 6. (12 – both sizes)

Round 53 (RS) – Ch 1, turn. Hdc-sc2tog 6 times total. Sl st to first st made in round to close. (6 – both sizes)

Round 54 (WS) – Ch 1, turn. 1 hdc each st around. Sl st to first hdc made to close. (6 -both sizes)

Tie off, cut yarn. Leave a long tail of 4-5 inches for seaming in the tip of the hat and sewing the pom on.
Weave in all ends of the hat now except for the long tail for seaming and sewing on the pom.

Continue with Part 4 – Finishing the Hat

Part 4 – Finishing the Hat

There is a small opening at the tip of the hat that we’ll sew closed. This is also where we will attach the pom.

Closing this hole is as simple as using a tapestry needle and weaving in and out of each of the 6 stitches, then pulling tight.

You can choose to sew the pom on before or after you close the hole. Your choice will likely depend on the type of pom you’re using, whether you made your own from scrap yarn or if you’re using a faux fur pom with an elastic loop.

The faux fur poms I use have a little elastic loop on them. This loop is often used in conjunction with a button on the inside of a beanie, so that the pom can be detachable for washing. If your pom has a loop and you want the pom to be detachable, you can sew a button inside. This may be a little fiddly as the tip is so thin.

I chose to simply sew the pom on. These hats won’t be used that often as they’re holiday hats and I personally am okay with hand washing these to keep the pom’s fluff.

Once the hole is seamed and your pom is sewn on, tie off your yarn and weave in your ends. The tip of your hat will look like the picture below.

Finally, cut a length of ribbon approximately 2 times as long as the circumference of the hat. Position the hat so the seam is toward the back. Insert the ribbon into one of the chain spaces and then continue to weave the ribbon in and out of the spaces all the way around. Leave yourself a long tail at the start as it will be used to tie a bow.

Once you have woven the ribbon in and out of the chain spaces all the way around, you’ll have 2 tails hanging down. Tie a knot so the ribbon doesn’t slide around and then tie a bow. Cut any extra length off the tails. You’re done!

Why was this pattern updated? What changed?

The original Crochet Santa Hat pattern is one of my oldest patterns and it’s been well loved by many crocheters. Generally, I like to revisit my older patterns once in a while to see how they can be improved.

Just like we grow our skills as a crocheter and never stop, the same happens for designers. Our designing skills grow, our style changes and often we can go back and make something that was good even better.

Since originally releasing these crochet Christmas stocking caps years and years ago, I’ve found a brim style that I prefer in crochet hats much more than the previous. The new brim style stretches better and is much more comfortable to wear and easier to ensure it fits correctly.

That alone made me want to update this pattern and I originally set out to do the same exact thing as I did before. However, I realized I wanted more texture in this new version of the Crochet Santa Hat pattern.

The original pattern was fairly simple and straightforward, which is totally fine, but I wanted more. I also wanted it to remain simple to crochet.

The major changes are in the construction of the pattern: The brim is now worked in rows instead of in rounds and all rounds are now closed and turned rounds whereas the original hat was mostly worked in spiral rounds.

Of course, there is the added texture too. The main style of the hat has remained the same, though. It’s still an adorable, festive Christmas crochet stocking cap with a pom on the tip and Santa’s belt weaved into spaces and finished with a bow.

Love this Festive Crochet Santa Hat Pattern? Share the love and Pin it to Pinterest!

I hope you love this crochet Santa hat pattern as much as I enjoyed designing them. Happy Holidays!

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Find More Free Crochet Patterns perfect for the winter season:

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Reindeer C2C Square – Use this C2C square for placemats, as a part of a blanket or anything you desire to celebrate the winter holidays.
Arctic Beanie – Keep your loved ones warm this holiday season with this textured and cozy beanie pattern.
Hazel Beanie – Prefer to crochet hats made from rectangles? You’ll love this gorgeous hat pattern.
Casey Scarf – Super easy and super cozy, this scarf pattern would make a great gift.
Color Block Super Scarf – Perfect for anyone you can think of, this super sized scarf will keep them warm all season.